Powder is the staple of any film makeup kit because it helps other departments, such as lighting and cameras, to function efficiently. Even low budget or naturalistic styles, not requiring a made-up look, should have an on-set makeup artist to apply powder and anti-shine as required between takes. This stops the distracting glare on screen that arises from lights bouncing off shiny skin, ruining any take. Beauty makeup, prosthetic pieces and special effects are all enhanced when set with powder.
Basic Powder Types
Good quality translucent loose powder is super-fine and has a range of uses in professional makeup artistry. When applied properly it should take off shine, set makeup and minimize the appearance of perspiration. It can also be used for blending and creating a range of effects. Translucent loose powder does not colour the skin or give coverage.
While most editorial and photographic makeup artists prefer loose powder for it’s high quality finish, pressed powder is extremely useful for film makeup artists because it is quick and easy to apply when in a hurry.
Compact powder foundation combines the characteristics of setting-powder with coverage. Use it to mattify and quickly conceal areas where cream makeup has faded, such as around the nose. Professional palettes usually accommodate a couple of color choices and this makes on-set retouches clean and easy.
Anti-shine gel is a clear, oil-free gel that usually contains a suspension of extremely fine, absorbent particles. Soaking up perspiration, it is ideal for areas that are notoriously hard to mattify, such as bald heads. In emergencies, this can be dabbed straight on top of makeup but start by applying anti-shine gel straight on to the skin and then layering on some translucent powder.
Basic Application Tips for Film
Powder should be invisible on the skin, so apply it sparingly using a soft powder brush or puff.
- To set makeup, work loose powder into a double sided velour puff. Then roll and press the puff into the makeup.
The best powder brushes are super-soft but firm as well. The firmness gives you control over your application, which keeps costumes and the set tidy. Soft bristles distribute powder evenly and do not scratch an actor’s skin.
- Work powder gently in to the brush and then apply in an even movement so as not to flick excess powder around.
- A powder brush ideal for application over special effects, prosthetic pieces, very sticky cream makeup or bare skin.
On-Set Application
Film, TV and video makeup is usually done in makeup room or at least away from the filming. Yet under the lights, actors perspire and makeup melts off so a long filming day will always require some reapplication.
Re-touching with powder is done in between most takes and this calls for a little preparation and concentration. Makeup artists usually have to dash in as soon as filming stops, without disturbing the other departments or holding up filming. Most directors know that the makeup department is there to make their film look good but on long days, too much fuss with the makeup department can get frustrating. From a makeup designer’s point of view, being rushed off set often leads to a sloppy finish but there is a way to balance working relationships and keep everyone happy.
- Watch each take on the monitor so that you have a constant view of how everything looks on camera.
- Step in to correct any shine or prevent glare developing but do not automatically run in with a pot of powder in between every take.
- When you do need to reapply, be aware of surroundings. Tripping on leads or knocking equipment must be avoided at all costs.
- A palette of pressed powder in a few shades is much easier for on-set retouches than loose pots. Keep a similar palette of compact powder foundation for when coverage is needed.
- Applying powder quickly but thoroughly stops you from having to make frequent reapplications. For a really professional finish, do not neglect areas such as the hairline and eyelids.
Essential Hygiene
Having a good grasp of hygiene standards and health and safety issues is an essential element of professional makeup artistry. Being dry, powder tends to harbour less harmful bacteria than a product like mascara but it is still easy to pass on skin infections with dirty powder brushes.
- When on set, keep separate brushes for each actor.
- Try to load the brush with sufficient powder before application, rather than having to dip dirty brushes back in the product.
- Clean product from brushes at the end of each day, using a professional solvent de-greaser. Then use a mild anti bacterial wash to keep your powder brushes germ free.
- Keep an alcohol spray in the on-set kit bag in case you lose your brushes or get them mixed up. Cleaning brushes with this as soon as you get back behind the monitor also helps to minimize risks of infection. You can also spray and clean pressed powder with this.
When stocking up a film makeup kit, it is so much fun to browse through the array of colour and special effects products on the market. Although these feel a bit more exciting to buy, nothing will get you that professional finish more than a good quality powder. Look around professional makeup shops and photographic makeup artists lines to find a couple of powder products that you like to work with and always keep a good supply of these in your kit.
Shefali Choudhury - Writer and visual artist, Suite Beauty topic editor, Shefali spent 10 years in professional makeup artistry from beauty to blood ...
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